Imperial Shih Tzus For Sale in Indiana

LoCo's Shih Tzus

What you may need for a new puppy.

Here are a few things I think new pet owners need in order to have a easier time training and raising a puppy. Many of these things you can get at the Dollar Tree!

Shampoo- use a gentle brand with no alcohol and follow with a conditioner, I like Suave 2 in 1.

Brushes($1)- a normal human or dog brush with balled tips on the bristols works fine.

Combs($1) - use a fine tooth comb around eyes and face area.

Scizzors($1)- hair cutting ones to use around nose and anal areas.

Nail trimmers($1)- you can use the small cat ones on the puppies, works great!

Crates ($15 up)- I recommend two crates. One to travel in and to use the first few weeks at night that is smaller and around 12 inches to 15 inches. I also recommend a larger metal one to use when at work or not home for longer periods that is over 2 ft. I feel it is too long to leave a puppy in a crate for over 3 hours. If you must leave your puppy buy a baby gate and close off a small area like a laundry room or bathroom. Put the crate, food, water, and toys in the room and leave a potty pad down as back up.

 Food ($33 or less)- we feed Diamond Naturals, you can find this brand at Pet Suppplies plus, Menards, Tractor Supple, Big R or buy online and have delivered to your house. AVOID CHICKEN AND BEEF in adults over the age of 1 year! This breed tends to have food allergies to these things as they age- Fish or Lamb seem to be best. 

Diamond Naturals Small Breed Puppy Formula Dry Dog Food

Tiny teeth deserve tiny bites packed with nutritious ingredients for optimal growth and development. Contains DHA for optimal development of your puppy's brain and eyes and Omega 6 & Omega 3 Fatty Acids to keep the skin and coat healthy and shiny.

Key Benefits

  • Contains DHA for brain & eye development
  • Antioxidant formulation
  • Balanced Omega Fatty Acids for skin & coat
  • Small kibble is easy to grasp and chew
  • Natural formula with vitamins & minerals
  • No corn, no wheat, no soy
  • Made in the USA!

    Chicken, chicken meal, ground rice, chicken fat (preserved with mixed tocopherols), pea protein, egg product, cracked pearled barley, dried beet pulp, fish meal, powdered cellulose, flaxseed, natural flavor, salmon oil (source of DHA), salt, potassium chloride, choline chloride, dried chicory root, L-Carnitine, kale, chia seed, pumpkin, blueberries, oranges, quinoa, dried kelp, coconut, spinach, carrots, papaya, yucca schidigera extract, Lactobacillus acidophilus, Bifidobacterium lactis, Lactobacillus reuteri, vitamin E supplement, beta carotene, iron proteinate, zinc proteinate, copper proteinate, ferrous sulfate, zinc sulfate, copper sulfate, potassium iodide, thiamine mononitrate (vitamin B1), manganese proteinate, manganous oxide, ascorbic acid, vitamin A supplement, biotin, niacin, calcium pantothenate, manganese sulfate, sodium selenite, pyridoxine hydrochloride (vitamin B6), vitamin B12 supplement, riboflavin (vitamin B2), vitamin D supplement, folic acid

Lamb Meal & Rice Formula for Adult Dogs

Lamb protein and moderate levels of fat help support ideal body condition while providing the nutrients your dog needs to stay active day after day. Guaranteed levels of vitamin E and selenium ensure that your dog receives optimum antioxidant nutrition, while omega-6 and omega-3 fatty acids from super foods help maintain healthy skin and a shiny coat. For dogs that may have sensitivities to other protein sources, lamb is a tasty alternative.


Lamb meal, ground rice, cracked pearled barley, peas, millet, chicken fat (preserved with mixed tocopherols), egg product, rice bran, dried beet pulp, natural flavor, fish meal, flaxseed, potassium chloride, salt, choline chloride, dried chicory root, kale, chia seed, pumpkin, blueberries, oranges, quinoa, dried kelp, coconut, spinach, carrots, papaya, yucca schidigera extract, Lactobacillus acidophilus, Bifidobacterium lactis, Lactobacillus reuteri, vitamin E supplement, beta carotene, iron proteinate, zinc proteinate, copper proteinate, ferrous sulfate, zinc sulfate, copper sulfate, potassium iodide, thiamine mononitrate (vitamin B1), manganese proteinate, manganous oxide, ascorbic acid, vitamin A supplement, biotin, niacin, calcium pantothenate, manganese sulfate, sodium selenite, pyridoxine hydrochloride (vitamin B6), vitamin B12 supplement, riboflavin (vitamin B2), vitamin D supplement, folic acid.

Treats-   treats that has no grain or meats other than lamb/fish are preferred but any treat in very small amounts should be ok.

Water($3)- we use a rabbit water bottle and you can get them at walmart. Keeps face clean and dry! I also recommend bottled water if you have poor water at home.

Bowel($1 up) small metal plastic bowels are best.

Leash/harness($1 up)-you will need a leash and harness for your puppy. Collars are cute and need to be worn for ID reasons but not a great way to walk a puppy with a tiny neck. Some people who do not have a fenced in yard find X pens to be the best way to keep a puppy from running off. You can buy a pen at walmart and set it up right out side your door. Puppies will go potty but do not get as distracted by playing in a large area. Also keeps fecals in one area and not all over the yard!

Pet safe toy ($1 up)- toys are a great way to release energy and entertain your new puppy. Edible chews toys are to be used with CAUTION. Puppies can get too big of peices and get a stomach/intestinal blockage.

A few other tips

Introducing your puppy to family pets-

Introduce your puppy in a neutral area. This means not in the house and not in the area your dogs go potty in. Give them 10-20 minutes to get use to one another before moving to the house.


 Every dog is different just like people so what works for one may not work for another. All our puppies are free fed dry food only by the time they go home. This means food is always out. If this does not work for your family then make sure they are fed several times a day with the appropriate amount listed on the back of your dog food bag. With the imperial and tinie puppies YOU MUST let them have food at all times, even at night, until they are over 3 lb or risk the chance of low blood sugar. You may also need to add a very small amount of canned puppy food to the dry food first thing in the morning and right before bed time to increase the amount of food they eat to help them maintain their blood sugar.



This why our pups are NEVER allowed to leave until they are 2 lb no matter what their age may be.
Hypoglycemia is a frequent problem in young puppies, especially the toy and smaller breeds. These animals may seem weak, uncoordinated, and even have seizures. Some adult dogs also have problems with hypoglycemia, especially during periods of increased or prolonged activity.
Low Blood Sugar (Hypoglycemia) and Toy Dogs

Because Toy Breeds have such a small fat reserve around their liver, they are prone to low blood sugar. Although this can occur at any time, it's especially important to watch your new puppy due to his small size.

Symptoms: Lethargy, lack of coordination (stumbling, falling, staggering).

Treatment: Although you should always consult your veterinarian for the proper treatment of your particular puppy, you can keep some sugar handy (e.g. Nutri-Cal, Nutri-Stat, Vitacal, Karo Syrup, honey, sugar water or any high calorie food supplement for dogs) to boost your little friend's blood sugar level when it starts dropping. You MUST treat this problem immediately or your pup can go into shock. To avoid this problem, do not over-play with extra tiny pups and always make sure your dog eats well and gets a good drink of water before taking them out.


Crate Training

"Private room with a view. Ideal for traveling dogs or for those who just want a secure, quiet place to hang out at home."

That's how your dog might describe his crate. It's his own personal den where he can find comfort and solitude while you know he's safe and secure—and not shredding your house while you're out running errands.

Crating philosophy

Crate training uses a dog's natural instincts as a den animal. A wild dog's den is his home, a place to sleep, hide from danger, and raise a family. The crate becomes your dog's den, an ideal spot to snooze or take refuge during a thunderstorm.

The primary use for a crate is housetraining. Dogs don't like to soil their dens.Crates are a safe way to transport your dog in the car.

A crate isn't a magical solution. If not used correctly, a dog can feel trapped and frustrated.

Never use the crate as a punishment. Your dog will come to fear it and refuse to enter it.Don't leave your dog in the crate too long.  A dog that’s crated day and night doesn't get enough exercise or human interaction and can become depressed or anxious. You may have to change your schedule, hire a pet sitter, or take your dog to a doggie daycare facility to reduce the amount of time he must spend in his crate every day.Puppies under six months of age shouldn't stay in a crate for more than three or four hours at a time. They can't control their bladders and bowels for that long.  The same goes for adult dogs that are being housetrained.  Physically, they can hold it, but they don’t know they’re supposed to.Crate your dog only until you can trust him not to destroy the house. After that, it should be a place he goes voluntarily.

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Selecting a crate

Several types of crates are available:

Plastic (often called "flight kennels")Fabric on a collapsible, rigid frameCollapsible, metal pens

Crates come in different sizes and can be purchased at most pet supply stores or pet supply catalogs.

Your dog's crate should be just large enough for him to stand up and turn around in. If your dog is still growing, choose a crate size that will accommodate his adult size. Block off the excess crate space so your dog can't eliminate at one end and retreat to the other. Your local animal shelter may rent out crates.  By renting, you can trade up to the appropriate size for your puppy until he’s reached his adult size, when you can invest in a permanent crate.

The crate training process

Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog's age, temperament, and past experiences. It's important to keep two things in mind while crate training:

The crate should always be associated with something pleasant.Training should take place in a series of small steps. Don't go too fast.Step 1: Introduce your dog to the crate

Place the crate in an area of your house where the family spends a lot of time, such as the family room. Put a soft blanket or towel in the crate. Take the door off and let the dog explore the crate at his leisure. Some dogs will be naturally curious and start sleeping in the crate right away.  If yours isn't one of them:

Bring him over to the crate, and talk to him in a happy tone of voice. Make sure the crate door is open and secured so that it won't hit your dog and frighten him.Encourage your dog to enter the crate by dropping some small food treats nearby, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way inside the crate. If he refuses to go all the way in at first, that's okay; don't force him to enter.Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog will walk calmly all the way into the crate to get the food. If he isn't interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in the crate. This step may take a few minutes or as long as several days.Step 2: Feed your dog his meals in the crate

After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding him his regular meals near the crate. This will create a pleasant association with the crate.

If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin Step 2, place the food dish all the way at the back of the crate.If he remains reluctant to enter the crate, put the dish only as far inside as he will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed him, place the dish a little further back in the crate.Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat his meal, you can close the door while he's eating. The first time you do this, open the door as soon as he finishes his meal. With each successive feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until he's staying in the crate for ten minutes or so after eating.If he begins to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving him in the crate for a shorter time period. If he does whine or cry in the crate, don’t let him out until he stops. Otherwise, he'll learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine, so he'll keep doing it.Step 3: Lengthen the crating periods

After your dog is eating his regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine him there for short time periods while you're home.

Call him over to the crate and give him a treat.Give him a command to enter, such as "kennel." Encourage him by pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand.After your dog enters the crate, praise him, give him the treat, and close the door.Sit quietly near the crate for five to ten minutes, and then go into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a short time, and then let him out of the crate.Repeat this process several times a day, gradually increasing the length of time you leave him in the crate and the length of time you're out of his sight.Once your dog will stay quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you mostly out of sight, you can begin leaving him crated when you're gone for short time periods and/or letting him sleep there at night. This may take several days or several weeks.Step 4, Part A: Crate your dog when you leave

After your dog can spend about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving him crated for short periods when you leave the house.

Put him in the crate using your regular command and a treat. You might also want to leave him with a few safe toys in the crate.Vary at what point in your "getting ready to leave" routine you put your dog in the crate. Although he shouldn't be crated for a long time before you leave, you can crate him anywhere from five to 20 minutes prior to leaving.Don't make your departures emotional and prolonged—they should be matter-of-fact. Praise your dog briefly, give him a treat for entering the crate, and then leave quietly.

When you return home, don't reward your dog for excited behavior by responding to him in an excited, enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low key to avoid increasing his anxiety over when you will return. Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time to time when you're home so he doesn't associate crating with being left alone.

Step 4, Part B: Crate your dog at night

Put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat. Initially, it may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night, and you'll want to be able to hear your puppy when he whines to be let outside.

Older dogs, too, should initially be kept nearby so they don't associate the crate with social isolation.

Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with his crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer, although time spent with your dog—even sleep time—is a chance to strengthen the bond between you and your pet.

Potential problems

Whining. If your dog whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may be difficult to decide whether he's whining to be let out of the crate, or whether he needs to be let outside to eliminate. If you've followed the training procedures outlined above, then your dog hasn't been rewarded for whining in the past by being released from his crate. If that is the case, try to ignore the whining. If your dog is just testing you, he'll probably stop whining soon. Yelling at him or pounding on the crate will only make things worse.

If the whining continues after you've ignored him for several minutes, use the phrase he associates with going outside to eliminate. If he responds and becomes excited, take him outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you're convinced that your dog doesn't need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore him until he stops whining. Don't give in; if you do, you'll teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what he wants. If you've progressed gradually through the training steps and haven't done too much too fast, you'll be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again.

Separation anxiety. Attempting to use the crate as a remedy for separation anxiety won't solve the problem. A crate may prevent your dog from being destructive, but he may injure himself in an attempt to escape from the crate. Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with counter-conditioning and desensitization procedures. You may want to consult a professional animal-behavior specialist for help.

© 2014 The Humane Society of the United States